Road Trip Through Madhya Pradesh - Third Stop - Bheda Ghat, Jabalpur

Friday, January 12, 2018

Road Trip Through Madhya Pradesh - Third Stop - Bheda Ghat, Jabalpur

Bheda Ghat

After breakfast of poha and tea at Faagun Haveli, Orchha, we started for Jabalpur around 8:20 am.
It was difficult to navigate to the highway since our phone network was not working. After asking around we found our way. The initial route was through a very rural area until we hit the national highway 44. There is a Rs 85 toll for Jhansi Lalitpur section. At Lalitpur another toll of Rs 65 is charged.

Another toll at Malthone for Rs 90. The highway has clean roads except you need to be careful of animals coming across at places which have adjacent villages. Near the Rehil region the road gets narrow so move slow for about 2-3 km.

After Rehil region another toll for Jabalpur is charged at Rs 25. There are literally no places to eat or stop. One petrol pump (Indian Oil) about 90 Km before Jabalpur had clean washrooms.
Further on another toll for Rs 25 at Patan.

bheda ghat, narmada river
Bheda Ghat, Narmada River, Jabalpur

Route is generally scenic going through fields and some stretches of foresty areas. We headed straight to the V Vrindavan Resort, Bheda Ghat, Jabalpur. This was going to be our home for the night. The highway road was under construction with a lot of trucks. The resort is located at the best location possible, right across the Dhuandhar falls. The A/c deluxe room was very big in size but it's like a 2 star property, bare minimum stuff, an almirah, and very basic toiletries.




dhuandhar waterfalls, V Vrindavan Resort
Dhuandhar Waterfalls, as seen from V Vrindavan Resort, Jabalpur
Cable Car For Dhuandhar Waterfalls (as seen from V Vrindavan Resort)
Cable Car For Dhuandhar Waterfalls (as seen from V Vrindavan Resort)

We had lunch in their restaurant which offers outdoor seating with a straight view of the falls. The lunch was very tasty. After lunch we took our car right to the Bheda Ghat. If you are staying here you can take the cable car down to the Dhuandhar Falls and get an aerial view of the falls but since the last car returns by 6 pm we decided to take our own car. The road has an entry ticket of Rs 25. There is a proper car parking available though the road might seem narrow, drive down and ask someone for the parking. It was 3 pm and too sunny for a boat ride so we took an auto and went back up 500 m to the Chaunsath Yogini temple. A steep climb of stairs takes you to the temple which has a circular complex. Inside there are ancient ruins of the yogini scultpures placed on the inside circumference. In the center is a small temple of lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati sitting on Nandi. The priest said it is the only idol showing Shiva and Parvati during their marriage ceremony.

Chaunsath Yogini Temple, Jabalpur
Chaunsath Yogini Temple, Jabalpur

It was a calm place and worth the climb. If you want to take prasad to the temple buy it from the vendors sitting right outside the gate before you begin your climb  After spending around half an hour here we walked back to the Bheda Ghat. Spent some time roaming the market with lots of marble statues, junk jewellery and other artifiacts. Then we had tea at a big restaurant just left to where the market on the steps to Bheda Ghat ends. It was quite horrible so you can surely avoid unless you are fond of extremely sweet milky tea.

We booked a private boat for Rs 400. The ride lasts for 30 mins. We were told that if we pay another 400 to the person handling the boats he will take us beyond the normal viewing point. There was another couple who was interested in going beyond the normal boundary so we decided to club our boat ride and the person agreed that he would take us deeper inside the valley. During the ride through the marble rocks the guide keeps telling you stories and will shoe you how different pieces of rock resemble different things, like a broken down Maruti car or the face of lord Shiva. The view through the marble rocks is amazing. The huge rocks add a sense of serene (if only the guide would keep quiet)

Boat ride through Bheda Ghat - Marble Rocks, Jabalpur

Bheda Ghat, Jabalpur

Different Bollywood movies have been shot here so he will tell you stories about them as well. When we crossed the viewing point we realized the extra distance he took us was merely a 100m - so don't waste your money and stick to the regular ticket.

You can also take a ride on a non private boat where the ticket cost is Rs 50 per head. This boat will be more crowded though.

After our ride we strolled through the market once more and headed back to the parking. We then drove to Dhuandhar Water Falls, by this time the sun had already set, the temperature had fallen considerably. We parked in the oarking area and walked down to the falls. The water was gushing at very high speed. We took a lot of pictures and headed back to our hotel. Had dinner there basic chinese cooked well in indian style, followed by a cup of coffee before calling it a night. I realized they had only given a single quilt and single blankets, had to call the reception to send us a quilt since it was extremely cold. Thankfully they sent it promptly so that we could sleep peacefully.

Dhuandhar Waterfalls, Jabalpur (As seen at night)





Dhuandhar Waterfalls, Jabalpur
Dhuandhar Waterfalls, Jabalpur

Dhuandhar Waterfalls, Jabalpur
Dhuandhar Waterfalls, Jabalpur

 In the morning after breakfast (paratha, idli, sambhar, tomato sandwich ) we walked to the water fall from the side of our hotel. Spent some time watching it, clicking pictures then ventured outside the hotel from a back exit to get a view of the valley then headed out towards the Bargi Dam. I fed in Bargi Dam in google and it took us through a strange route through Bargi village and we landed up on top of the dam where the road is closed  (restricted only for VIPs as per the man in charge). He allowed us to park and click a few pictures and then after taking directions for Bandhavgarh we headed out.
Bargi Dam, Jabalpur
Bargi Dam, Jabalpur
En-route we hit the Maikal resort, run by M.P. Tourism, this it the place from where the boating and cruise for the dam happens. We made a quick 15 min stop, did a speed boat ride which costs Rs 100 per person (but you have to pay for a minimum of 3 people if the riders in the boat are less) and the trip on the boat lasts for about 3 minutes. But, it was worth the ride, the sun was out, the water was cold and the cool breeze made everything perfect! You can do a cruise ride which goes closer to the dam and is a longer 30-40 minute ride, cost is Rs 180 per person. Just outside the Maikal resort you will find vendors selling 'ber' or berries which are almost an inch in size. Do try these, at Rs 10 a plate, you might want to buy quite a few.

Speed Boat Ride (near Bargi Dam), Jabalpur
Speed Boat Ride (near Bargi Dam), Jabalpur

Leaving behind the waters of Jabalpur we headed straight ahead towards Bandhavgarh National Park, a four hour drive.


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14 comments:

  1. OMG, what a wonderful trip! The rock formations look so craggy and different from what we have here along our coastline - orange and gray granites. The falls are beautiful, and so it the lovely temple.

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  2. Love the scenery! Looks like an awesome trip, I found myself relaxing looking through the photos.

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  3. What beautiful rock formations and waterfalls! It looks like a fun trip!

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  4. What a beautiful trip you took!!!

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  5. I don't know if I'd love the boat ride or the waterfalls the most. How beautiful!

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  6. The waterfalls look amazing! I love traveling vicariously through you. :) Thank you for sharing with us.

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  7. I love reading your travel series! It makes me really want to travel more!

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  8. Wow!!! This looks like an amazing and peaceful place to visit!!! Loving the waterfalls!!

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  9. Sceñic views! I would definitely ask you for travel tips

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  10. What a wonderful trip. You've added some memories that will be part of your forever life.

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  11. Lovely adventure photos! Looks like so many neat places!!

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  12. Those waterfalls are majestic! Thank you for taking us along on your road trip.

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  13. We all can plan for this place & use your blog for planning :)..great work

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